The Other Gulf

Been in the Gulf for the 2 weeks now and the temps are beginning to soar. Alas, it’s difficult to focus on the hot weather (at least until we hit Kuwait) when we’ve been filling a lifetime of experiences into each day. We spend a lot of time in the van as we shuttle back and forth between meetings with oil execs, university faculty, Emiratis, and camel farmers. I’ve nicknamed the vehicle “Vanistan” and as a group we’ve discovered distinct climate and socio-economic differences between its north and south regions. It’s a huge adjustment being away from the boy and the man and the sweet-faced dog but I’ve found kindred spirits among the Fulbright clan and life on the road has become the new normal. I allow myself one glance at the boy’s photo per day and having nightly conversations with Casey the Wonderful has been a lifeline.

Met with the Department of the Interior (Police Department) today in Abu Dhabi in a round, domed, ornately decorated room filled with photographers and servants who had spiced tea at the ready. The highlight was the lunch that followed, where I had a chance to sit with a few of the police officers to talk not about politics, war, or oil, but food. Made the mistake of mentioning to the affable Lt Colonel that I was in the market for saffron and by late afternoon, four gold embossed packets of the spice had been delivered. I believe that the hospitality of the Emiratis would exist in the absence of their wealth. At a camel farm two days ago we ate plates of (Indian) roti drizzled with honey straight from the dusty cliffs that sit above Al Ain. Each tablespoon was more costly than gold, but Ahmed poured the liquid generously onto our plates and then led us outside to visit with the camels. My hillbilly complex has shifted into high gear in this little corner of the world. During dinner with an Emirati family three nights ago I presented our host family with maps of Colorado as a thank you gift. The family in turn gave us two abayas and a shawl after feeding us a gut busting dinner of kebobs and grape leaves. We are a delegation, yes, and so we’ve been treated like royalty and dealt a rather oblique view of life in the Gulf states, but the people here are truly kind – the Emiratis, the Pakistani cab drivers, the Indian grocers, the Philippino maids, the Egyptian 20-somethings at the fitness desk.

Each day I catch glimpses of the Persian/Arabian Gulf and its emerald hue continues to dazzle but not quite motivate a dip in its warm waters. The sun is searing and I miss the green of a Colorado June, but I’m here now, so I slather on the 70 SPF, hoist my green umbrella aloft, and step out into the bright light of Arabia. I’m here, I’m really here, I think, and I thank the lot of you for encouraging the foolish expedition of a sun-averse mother of two (Kiwi counts). Still can’t guarantee any of you that I’ll make it to Kuwait but will do my best. Am so indescribably hungry to hold the sweet little boy with a smile big enough to light up the Burj Kalifa.

Photos to follow when we arrive in Doha.